Category Archives: University of Brighton

Exhibition Press Release: The Dark Truth Behind the Fairy Tales of the Brothers’ Grimm

Posted on by Standard Respond

Second year BA (Hons) Art History and Visual Culture students Ella Chalice, Ray Elliot Ling, Tiggy Mills and Martha Rabetts have curated a showcase exploring the dark undercurrents of Grimm fairy tales at St Peter’s House Library. 

Press Release

Discover The Dark Truth Behind The Fairy Tales Of The Brothers Grimm

 The Dark Truth Behind the Fairy Tales of the Brothers Grimm

Supported by the University of Brighton

St Peter’s House Library Ground Floor

With thanks to the St Peter’s House Library Special Collection and Suzanne Rowland

Visit our Instagram https://www.instagram.com/ahexhibition/

Fairy Tales, those cherished stories from our childhood, are often associated with magic, whimsy, and happy endings. However, the origins of these beloved stories are much darker. These tales, once rooted in the oral traditions of peasant communities, were full of cruelty, exploitation, and the grim morals of life.

Opening on the 3rd of December 2024

 The Dark Truth Behind the Fairy Tales of the Brothers’ Grimm is a display that provides an opportunity to remember not just the Grimm Brothers, but the voices they recorded and the cultures they preserved. This exhibition is a chance to see fairy tales not just as escapism, but as tools of understanding the darkness and resilience of the human spirit through these characters.

Fairy Tales are more than stories; they are cultural artifacts. In their earliest forms, these narratives reflected the fears, struggles, and moral dilemmas of the societies they came from. The Grimms’ adaptations, for instance, often addressed themes like poverty, greed, and the exploitation of children. These tales weren’t just bedtime stories—they were mirrors to society’s darkest truths and guides on survival.

Feature Spotlight

The Display will have a focus on the story and character of Rumpelstiltskin, with an exclusive look at objects from St Peters House Library’s special collection including:

  • Rare books and objects from Peter’s House Library’s special collection, including original copies of the Fairy Tales of the Brothers Grimm.
  • A presentation of David Hockney’s Grimm’s Fairy Tales etchings, which visually explore the psychological depth of these stories.
  • Arthur Rackham’s iconic illustrations, contrasting beauty with the tales’ darker truths.

Both written and illustrated depictions of the tales of Rumpelstiltskin will be showcased. Through these works, visitors will see how the Grimms’ adaptations evolved over time—softened and reimagined for modern audiences, yet still preserving echoes of their original starkness.

Reclaiming the Raw Edges of History

At its core, Rumpelstiltskin is a story about greed, deceit, and the commodification of labor and children. The miller’s lie about his daughter’s abilities traps her in a perilous cycle of exploitation. And the goblin’s demand for her child could be seen as a metaphor for the toll of labour. Yet, this tale—deeply layered and universal—has never received the same cultural spotlight as, say, Cinderella. We invite you to look at what it says about the values we choose to amplify and why.

These objects are not just relics; they’re evidence of the evolution of storytelling. They demonstrate how the Grimms’ work was adapted, softened, and reimagined for different audiences. For instance, David Hockney’s etchings use visual abstraction to emphasize the psychological complexity of the tales, while Arthur Rackham’s illustrations add a layer of beauty that masks their brutality.

As time passes, we lose the raw edges of history. Stories like Rumpelstiltskin and Hansel and Gretel become fairy dusted, and we forget the real lessons they carried. This exhibition is an opportunity to remember—not just the Grimms, but the voices they recorded and the cultures they preserved. It challenges us to look at fairytales not as escapism, but as tools of understanding—tools that reveal both the darkness and resilience of the human spirit.

Event Details:

  • Exhibition Dates: December 3, 2024 – 5th Dec 2024
  • Location: St Peter’s House Library
  • No Tickets required- open to staff and students of Brighton University
  • Contact: ElliotLing1@uni.brighton.ac.uk

Step into a world where fairy tales are not merely bedtime stories but cultural artifacts. Rediscover the voices, struggles, and hopes of the societies that shaped them.

Join us this winter to uncover the dark truths behind the stories we thought we knew.

Curated by Ella Chalice, Ray Elliot Ling, Tiggy Mills and Martha Rabetts.

Exhibition Press Release: ‘An Ancestor to the Office Siren: Women’s Workwear 1940-45’

Posted on by Standard

Second year BA (Hons) Fashion and Design History students Daphne Chatterley, Amy Garrod, Amy Roberts, Jenny Stirling and Maggie Swan have curated a showcase on WWII Women’s Workwear at Mithras House. 

PRESS RELEASE

Issued 11/2024

An Ancestor to the Office Siren: Women’s Workwear 1940-45

3 December 2024 – April 2025

Mithras House

Launching on 3 December 2024, ‘An Ancestor to the Office Siren: Women’s Workwear 1940-45’ will be a short exhibition exploring the suits worn by women during a decade pivotal to society’s view of the working woman, on a backdrop of conflict and rationing of resources.

Eye-catching visual stimuli such as the dreamlike advertising fashion plates of clothing manufacturer Harella accompanies an ensemble of both authentic and replica/imitation 1940s garments to encapsulate the silhouette and lines of the popular style for women of the time, while period newspaper columns from British fashion journalist Alison Settle (Vogue editor 1929-36) illustrate the experience of dressing for the average woman in Britain, amidst rationing schemes in a conflict-torn political landscape.

The exhibition offers insight into the silhouettes of the era, with their accentuated shoulder and hip lines imitating masculinities, as women began to occupy previously male-exclusive workplaces, representing an assimilation through dress – but an empowering form of dress nonetheless.

Visitors will also be met with information on the rationing coupon scheme utilised during the Second World War, and gain an understanding of the value of coupons to garments similar to those displayed, while Settle’s writings describe the various make-do home methods of repurposing and recycling garments (often men’s) in a time of making little go a long way.

“In a few words, the war years in the U.K. meant coupon rationing, shortages, make-do and mend, and what came to be officially to be known as ‘Utility Clothing’.”

– Alison Settle

Two and three-dimensional objects loaned from the university’s Teaching Collection and Design Archives allow this exhibition to materialise and investigate the self-styling practices of the 1940s woman through dress in a time of austerity and political uncertainty while navigating the workplace, encouraging interest and engagement in a younger audience familiarised with the current micro-trend of the ‘office siren’, a seductive and hyper feminine character in the corporate style; presenting a predecessor to this in an era where imitating masculinities inspired major trends.

For high resolution images see below.

Further Information

Find us on Instagram by searching for the handle or scanning the code below, and leave feedback on the form accessible in the account bio.

Notes to Editors

Curated and presented by Daphne Chatterley, Amy Garrod, Amy Roberts, Jenny Stirling and Maggie Swan, students of BA Hons Fashion & Design History.

As a curatorial team we prioritise providing both visual and textual stimuli for visitors to enable fulfilling engagement with historical subject matter, while finding relevant links to style and popular culture today, such as internet trends and vintage revival. We aspire to bring women’s stories to the forefront of our historical studies as a group of queer and feminist students, challenging an art historical canon dominated by male figures.

This exhibition can be found in Mithras House, home to social studies at the University of Brighton, and the Teaching Collection founded by Professor Lou Taylor.

 

Mithras House

Lewes Road

Moulsecoomb, Brighton

BN2 4QX

 

Acknowledgements

With special thanks to the advisory assistance from Suzanne Rowland and Nicola Miles, help with the loan of objects from Sue, Sirpa and Jen at the University of Brighton Design Archives, and technical assistance of Arden Mccutcheon.

Fig. 1, Daphne Chatterley, An Ancestor to the Office Siren Exhibition Poster, Nov 2024.
image on poster: Artist unknown, Fashion magazine advert, c.1940s, UK, via The Advertising Archives, Bridgeman Education.

 

Fig. 2: View from the “An Ancestor of the Office Siren: Women’s Workwear 1940-1945” Exhibition, Mithras House, University of Brighton, Brighton. Personal photograph by Amy Garrod. 3 Dec 2024.

 

 

 

Megan Glass reviews ‘Crown to Couture: The Fashion Show of the Centuries (5 Apr 2023 – 29 Oct 2023) at Kensington Palace. 

Posted on by Standard Respond

Final year Fashion and Design History student Megan Glass reviews the exhibition ‘Crown to Couture: The Fashion Show of the Centuries’ (5 Apr 2023 – 29 Oct 2023) at Kensington Palace.

’Crown to Couture: The Fashion Show of the Centuries’ (5 Apr 2023 – 29 Oct 2023) at Kensington Palace – The Royal Courts meet the Hollywood Starlet in a Grand Exhibition

by Megan Glass

 

Kensington Palace hosts a glamorous new exhibition documenting the story of high fashion and occasion wear, through both the lens of the royal court, and of the modern-day media.

A tulle Giambattista Valli gown overlooks the balcony of the King’s Staircase, Kensington Palace, London, personal photograph by author, 11th August 2023.

A truly unique story of connections between royal court fashion and Hollywood couture come together in Crown to Couture: , hosted at Kensington Palace. The awe-inspiring selection of pieces draw parallels between ornate Georgian society and the glamour of modern-day Hollywood, whilst analysing differences among the respective societies and expectations of the time.

Connections to royal fashion have not surprisingly been established in Kensington Palace for as long as it has been inhabited in 1605, but the relatively new-found world of modern glitz, glamour and movie stars is something that the Palace had yet to explore, which allows for a new spin on the historic venue. In many areas, the interior of the palace itself aides in telling the narrative of high court fashion, and the social implications of this style of dressing. In others, the King’s Gallery for example, the placing of modern designs amongst the grand rooms calls for some reflection regarding the differences and advancements in design since the Georgian period.

Moschino ensemble worn by Katy Perry at the 2019 Met Gala, Kensington Palace, London, personal photograph by author, 11th August 2023.

The exhibition opens with an introduction to ‘Old Hollywood’. In the centre of the room stands a glass case displaying the beloved dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday and later, to win Best Actress at the Oscars in 1954, with an Oscar placed alongside it. This dress, which would be considered close to something modern royals may wear today, still manages to wildly contrast the Georgian Spitalfields mantua dress, the oldest complete court gown in history, in which it’s pannier causes the dress to billow out from the hip. These two dresses, both equal in fame and cultural importance, manage to contrast each other in ways that continue throughout the rest of the exhibition.

For visitors of the exhibition, adult tickets retail at £25.40 and cover the entirety of Crown to Couture as well as access to other exhibited areas of the Palace, Victoria: A Royal Childhood for instance, which offers some more context surrounding the estate and its various historical purposes itself. The darkness of the rooms works to help preserve the garments in a way that will cause the least amount of damage possible, but the integral pieces of information regarding each ensemble remains highlighted. This is done through the use of lighted text panels placed on podiums, which provide a concise amount of knowledge whilst displaying in a way that avoids covering any aspect of the intricate interior of the palace.

It must be stated however, that these panels may be hard to find access to during busy viewing slots and may also be missed if not given the space the stand directly in front of, and then read. Panels belonging to particularly popular garments, such as Beyoncé’s 2017 Grammy Awards ensemble could unintentionally be missed if too crowded, which could potentially result in a lack of context surrounding the garment, if no prior knowledge had been acquired.

A tulle Giambattista Valli gown overlooks the balcony of the King’s Staircase, Kensington Palace, London, personal photograph by author, 11th August 2023.

Whilst moving further on into the collections, a plethora of gowns are displayed, with some taking inspiration from royal fashion itself like the 2020 Jeremy Scott’s Moschino dress, and Lizzo’s Thom Browne dress worn to the 2022 Met Gala. Despite these contemporary design references to historical royal dress, there is a definite lack of modern royal fashions in the exhibition. From the title Crown to Couture, audiences may expect to see more pieces from the royal wardrobe that were worn in the past hundred years. This may disappoint some who find themselves more invested in this subject area, as opposed to the clothes of modern A-listers. With this being said, the exhibition gathers a spectacular range of modern couture gowns, most notably from events like the Met Gala, the Oscars and the ‘Big 4’ fashion weeks from around the globe, most notably Billy Porter’s “Sun God” look for the 2022 Met Gala, or the luminous Christopher John-Rogers gown worn by Lady Gaga for the 2020 MTV Awards.

This vast and grand exhibition manages to blend the societies of royal courts and Hollywood together, creating a unique experience for any who appreciate the intricacies of couture, as well as the changes that modern society has undergone in the past several hundred years.

 

Sources Cited

Bromley, Joe. “Crown to Couture at Kensington Palace review: Heaven for devotees of the A-list, past and present.” Evening Standard. 30th March 2023. https://www.standard.co.uk/culture/exhibitions/crown-to-couture-at-kensington-palace-review-beyonce-kendall-jenner-timothee-chalomet-b1070989.html

Bridger-Linning, Stephanie. “Georgian glamour meets modern red carpet royalty in opulent new Kensington Palace exhibition.” Tatler. 7th February 2023. https://www.tatler.com/article/crown-to-couture-exhibition-kensington-palace

Cary, Alice. “A New Exhibition at Kensington Palace Charts Regal Style on the Red Carpet.” Vogue. 30th March 2020. https://www.vogue.com/article/crown-to-couture-exhibition-kensington-palace

Starbuck, Lydia. “Red carpet and royalty make perfect partners at Kensington Palace’s new exhibition, Crown to Couture.” Royal Central. 4th April 2023. https://royalcentral.co.uk/features/red-carpet-and-royalty-make-perfect-partners-at-kensington-palaces-new-exhibition-187846/

Avery Chamberlain reviews the ‘Women Dressing Women’ exhibition at The Met

Posted on by Standard Respond

Final year Fashion and Design History student Avery Chamberlain reviews The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s ‘Women Dressing Women’ exhibition (Dec. 7 2023 – Mar. 10 2024). 

‘Women Dressing Women’: Subversion, Compliance and The Condition of The 21st Century Fashion Exhibition

Avery Chamberlain

Fig. 1: View of “Women Dressing Women” Exhibition, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Personal photograph by author. 21 Dec. 2023.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Autumn/Winter 2023 Costume Institute Exhibition Women Dressing Women (Dec. 7 2023 – Mar. 10 2024) curated by Melissa Huber and Karen Van Godstenhoven, in their own words, aims to “…celebrate the artistic legacy of female fashion designers by showcasing innovative and enduring garments created by well-known, anonymous, and overlooked women makers.[1]” This long overdue discussion of female creativity in the canon of fashion history is the first of its kind for The Met, whose own costume institute carries a long lineage of women in fashion. While it succeeds in telling stories often unknown and overlooked by audiences and fellow institutions alike, some aspects of the experience left something to be desired. First and foremost, the layout of the exhibition space attempts to divide the space based on four keystones representing the struggle of women designers: Anonymity, Visibility, Agency, and Absence/Omission[2].  However, the use of exhibition space was faultily executed and created audible confusion among visitors. Upon entering the Tisch Gallery of the Anna Wintour Costume Center, a space which requires visitors to locate a staircase and descend below the museum’s ground floor, the first visible section on the right-hand side is labelled ‘II: Visibility’ (Fig. 1). This requires visitors to instead turn left to view ‘I: Anonymity’, retrace their steps to return to section two, and retrace their steps yet again to locate section three.  Faults in accessibility, such as the ones present in this space, can sacrifice the audience’s well-being as a result of the design choices made. The visitor is inadvertently confused which can cause frustration, “inferiority and submissiveness” in the space, as psychologist Anita Rui Olds described it in the Journal of Museum Studies[3]. The endeavour to make the sections more distinct lay solely in the presence of headpieces on the mannequins, each section being given its distinct design by a different artist. The only explanation of these headpieces is in the form of a small piece of text disclosing the artist’s name with no deeper reasoning behind the choice of artists provided. Furthermore, the headpieces are absent from some mannequins, including the translucent ones in the centre of the room, making it extremely difficult to decipher which section these belong to. Unlike the mannequins on the outer borders of the room, they do not naturally follow the flow of the section breaks (Fig.2). Others are lacking the headpieces due to the garments themselves, as is visible in Figure 3, leading one to assume that this feature of the exhibition lacked the necessary forethought.

Fig. 2: Ann Lowe, Evening Dress, circ. 1968, white cotton organza with pink silk organza carnations, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. . Personal photograph by author. 21 Dec. 2023.

Fig. 3: Bonnie Cashin, Coat, 1958, red and black plaid mohair knit with red leather trim, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. . Personal photograph by author. 21 Dec. 2023.

   A further blunder, though consistent with its contemporaries, the Met opted to include entirely high-fashion pieces constructed for upper-class consumers; Presenting only the most pristine examples from a given time period[4], ultimately reflecting a very small group of women designers and excluding the most needful of representation. Designers associated with middle-class, ordinary garments that would truly resonate with The Met’s varied audience, are absent, yet aspirational ensembles designed for royal court presentations (Fig.4) and lavish evenings line the space. The Met’s presentation of fine art and high fashion pervades the concept of the exhibition, and its sponsorship by investment bank Morgan Stanley and media giant Condé Nast enforces this even further, encouraging an exorbitant display. The boost provided by the sponsorship allowed for further acquisitions of additional garments, as is disclosed in the exhibition’s panels[5]. The implications of this sort of exhibition are simple. Fashion, especially that worthy of museum presentation, is high-fashion and scholarly by nature. An enduring discourse regarding museum-worthiness in fashion collections has already established a desire for institutions to divert away from this curatorial strategy, yet it remains ever-present in this exhibition and a majority of museums worldwide[6]. The environment this creates is one permeated by academic superiority and inclusivity which fails to address and include many groups, as is seen in Women Dressing Women. The exhibition strives to “…open up new perspectives…” and “…highlight the often-overlooked female labour of crafting garments…[7]”, yet the catalogue is representative of only those who achieved highest, enforcing the existing inclination to high fashion in the museum space and appeasing the established standards. All while attempting to subvert these very same standards. As is outlined in the chapter “Posterity Has Arrived” in Museum Activism “Inadvertently or not, many of the world’s museums are agents or partners in the hoarding of wealth, while also indulging in excessive consumption as organisations…[8]” The presence of a thoughtful feminist perspective may dissuade this discussion, but despite its triumphs, it does not fully erase the presence of these faults. The exhibition largely succeeds in its goals, telling untold stories, sparking much-needed discussions all in an empowering and visually appealing way. Yet if we fail to encourage our harbourers of cultural heritage to go beyond the comfortable territory of fine art, and to dismantle its norms for the betterment of public education, we cannot hope for the true museum activism Women Dressing Women aimed to achieve.

Fig. 4: Sylvie Boué de Montegut and Jeanne d’Etrellis, Court presentation ensemble, 1928, Pink silk chiffon and ivory tulle with silk flowers and embroidered with silk and metal lame, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. . Personal photograph by author. 21 Dec. 2023.

 

References

[1] Max Hollen, “Director’s Foreword,” Women Dressing Women, (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yale University Press, 2023), pp.9.

[2] “Press Release: The Met’s Fall 2023 Costume Institute Exhibition to Celebrate the Creativity and Artistic Legacy of Women Designers and Women-Led Fashion Houses,” The Met, October 27th, 2023.

[3] Anita Rui Olds, “Sending Them Home Alive,” Journal of Museum Education, vol. 15, no. 1, 1990, pp. 11.

[4] Valerie Steele, “A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag,” Fashion Theory, vol. 2, no.4, 1998, pp.333

[5] Women Dressing Women, introductory text panels, Dec 7. 2023-Mar 3. 2024, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fifth Avenue, New York.

[6] Valerie Steele, “A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag,” Fashion Theory, vol. 2, no.4, 1998, pp.333-334

[7] Melissa Huber and Karen Van Godstenhoven, “Women Dressing Women: A Lineage of Female Fashion Design,” Women Dressing Women, (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yale University Press, 2023), pp.13.

[8] Robert R. Janes and Richard Sandell, “Posterity has Arrived,” Museum Activism, edited by Robert R. Janes and Richard Sandell, (Routledge, 2019), pp. 5.

Student Work Placement: Brighton & Hove Museums

Posted on by Standard Respond

In this blog MA Curating Collections and Heritage Renee Keeffe describes her current work placement with the World Cultures team at Brighton & Hove Museums. She originally presented her insights at a public event organised by the university’s School of Humanities and Social Sciences which celebrated the many collaborations the university has with local and regional partners.

My name is Renee. I am currently pursuing my Master’s degree in Curating, Collections and Heritage. I am excited to share with you a wonderful opportunity I had to do for my professional placement at the Brighton & Hove Museum. I am a big advocate for the professional placement model on the course.Currently, my placement involves working with the ‘World Art team’, which consists of Portia Tremlett, the head curator, and Sandra Bauza, the assistant curator. My particular interest is Indigenous material culture and heritage. The following images give a sense of the work that I’ve been doing.

The Office

I walked into the office, which was one of the first exciting moments, viewing the museum’s own research library in their large bookshelves.

What did I get out the Placement?

I’ve been involved in various tasks at the museum, such as understanding how cataloguing works…..

Accessioning and deaccessioning paperwork and books

The process of cataloguing gave me a practical experience of working with the museum’s collections and object handling right through to learning how objects are created or acquired into the museum. I focused on understanding documentation procedures such as examining documents and filing the them on the museums systems.

Collections: I learned where artefacts or objects are kept  or stored, and how they were filed through the museum’s collections management system called Mimsy. I learnt how objects were collected, or who collected them, and learnt to describe the objects in the sytem.

Loans: I’ve also gained experience while working with loans from the British Museum, ensuring that the objects come back correctly with all the necessary checks on the garments and paperwork.

Research: during my placement, a research team called the ‘Oriental Raids Textile Society’ in London also researched Burmese textiles. They examine each garment closely and observed how each garment’s design and weave revealed its particular provenance.

Digital Archiving: I also learnt how digitization is incorporated into the collection management system through mimsy and excel in order to share information with other researchers.

Throughout my professional placement at the Brighton & Hove Museum, I’ve developed several transferable skills that are valuable in both my current field and potentially in others. The diverse range of tasks I did, which has significantly contributed to my personal and professional growth.

Here are some of the key transferrable skills:

Strong Communication Skills: Working closely with museum staff, from curators to assistants, has improved my ability to communicate effectively. Whether discussing the specifics of loans from other institutions or engaging with digitization processes, clear and effective communication has been crucial.

Teamwork: My experience at the museum underscored the importance of collaboration. Engaging with different departments and learning from experienced professionals has taught me the value of teamwork in achieving common goals.

Multitasking: Handling various tasks simultaneously, from documentation procedures to object handling and cataloguing, has improved my ability to multitask efficiently while maintaining a high standard of work.

Ethical awareness/ cultural sensitivity/Cultural awareness

Critical Thinking/Problem Solving: Throughout my placement, I’ve encountered challenges that required innovative solutions. Whether it was regarding the safe storage of artefacts or navigating the museum’s database systems, critical thinking has been key to overcoming these obstacles.

Writing: Documenting acquisitions, loans, and object histories has enhanced my writing skills, making it easier to articulate complex ideas clearly and concisely, a vital skill in almost any profession.

Engagement: Actively engaging with staff and participating in museum activities has taught me the importance of being a proactive team member.

Commitment: Demonstrating dedication through consistent effort and a willingness to take on various tasks has been a crucial part of my placement.

Optimism: Facing challenges with a positive outlook has not only helped me through difficult tasks but has also contributed to a positive work environment.

Passionate: My passion for curating collections and heritage, especially relating to world cultures and indigenous material culture, has grown.

These skills, acquired and refined during my time at the Brighton & Hove Museum, are not only valuable in the context of curatorial work as well as archives and collections but are also highly transferable to a range of other professions and endeavours.

Next Steps

Drawing on the lessons learned during my placement, I am keen to foster greater connections between museums and indigenous communities.

My aim is to contribute to practical solutions that bridge cultural gaps possible by leveraging digital resources to preserve and share indigenous stories and knowledge on a wider scale  with the archives and the collections. This means not just consulting on the representation of cultural objects in archives or collections but collaborating actively to ensure museums act as spaces of learning and respect for all cultures. This ethical approach aligns perfectly with my own research for my dissertation, particularly addressing complex issues such as decolonization and post-colonialism. Through continued learning and collaboration, I look forward to contributing to a future where museums play a central role in celebrating and preserving objects and their narratives of world cultures, especially those whose histories they hold.

Renee specialises in Indigenous Austrailan cultural heritage and provenance research. Brighton & Hove Museums’ collections are a key case study in her dissertation project.

 

 

 

 

 

Student Work Placement: The Keep Archive

Posted on by Standard Respond

MA Curating Collections and Heritage student Emily Warwick tells us about her current placement at the Mass Observation archive at the Keep in Brighton.

As part of my Professional Placements in Collections and Heritage module on the MA Curating Collections and Heritage, in semester two I was given the opportunity to volunteer for 150 hours. As I was applying to roles, I knew that a placement in archives was a pathway I was eager to pursue and gain valuable experience in. As a result, I was fortunate to secure a placement within The Mass Observation team, based at The Keep Archives in Falmer.

My role within this professional placement has varied quite a lot and as a result has provided me me first-hand experience of what it is like to work within an archive which is so focused on the benefits of community engagement. The Mass Observation programme was founded in 1937 by Tom Harrison, Charles Madge and Humphrey Jennings with the idea of recording and preserving the lives and thoughts of ordinary, everyday people across Britain. The original work continued until the early 1950s, until the project was revived in 1981. Today, there is a contemporary writing panel which is made up of writers from across the UK who answer questions presented to them in the form of seasonal directives. Questions range quite substantially, and written directives have included themes such as Currency (Summer 1981), You & The NHS (Spring 1997), Travelling (Spring 2000) and Climate change (Summer 2011).

Alongside the directives, the 12th May project allows anyone from around the UK to submit a day diary of everything they did in the morning to when they went to bed at night on this day. As a part of the project this year I attended an open day at Downs Jr School in Hove organised by ‘Take Shelter’, an organisation that have restored the WWII air raid shelter on the school’s grounds, and open it to the public, including as part of the Brighton Fringe festival. The Mass Observation team and I handed out diary pages to members of the public to fill in and send back to the archive, writing everything they got up to at the air raid shelter. It was really interesting to see what people were excited to write about as many people were surprised that their narratives would be included within a public archive. In preparation for the event I gathered examples from within the collection and this ranged from school groups, community groups as well as entries from prisons. In recent weeks, I have been able to catalogue some of this material as well as new entries which have been received via both post and email to the archive. Moreover, as part of the 12th May diary event I ran my own diary workshop with my Girlguiding Brownie pack which I regularly volunteer with. At the event we decorated our own sticker diaries as well as writing about everything we did on 12th May. We made the diaries as colourful as we could, with some girls opting to do theirs in the form of drawing and colouring alongside some writing.

Image showing the Mass Observation stall at Take Shelter

Image showing the Mass Observation stall at Take Shelter

As a part of this placement, I have also had the chance to transcribe some of the Covid 19 collection from 2020. These stories provide an emotive insight into the thoughts and feelings of people nationally during the difficult lockdown period. As a major event, the opinions of writers vary quite a lot as some people had entirely different experiences to others. Ultimately, transcribing and digitising these collections allows more people to read the directives without necessarily needing to visit the physical archive, which is much more accessible for many people, and this is why it is such important work to do.

Overall, I would highly recommend the placement module to anyone wishing to pursue a career in archives and museums as the experience I have gained is invaluable. The team at Mass Observation have been so welcoming and supportive throughout my time with them. They have really opened my eyes to the significance of community engagement within archives and the importance of using the materials we have to facilitate learning. I know that the experience this opportunity has given me will aid me in my career going forward.

Student Work Placement: Zenzie Tinker Conservation

Posted on by Standard Respond

MA Curating Collections and Heritage student Glenda Harris tells us about her current placement with leading textile conservation studio, Zenzie Tinker Conservation

As part of the MA Curating Collections and Heritage Course I had the opportunity to take the Professional Placements in Collections module. I was thrilled to secure a placement at Zenzie Tinker Conservation, a world-renowned textile conservation studio based  in Brighton. I knew I wanted to gain some hands-on experience in a conservation studio as this will help me gain valuable experience and compliment my academic studies. I am also keen to gain a better understanding of the work involved in displaying historic textiles. During the 150 hours of my placement, I have been able to assist with various projects, from condition checking new acquisitions, to helping with mounting uniforms for the National Trust. I have been able to work independently on object research and as part of the team on other projects. I have learned about and made various mounts for historic clothing and have been responsible for creating bespoke heads for mannequins, which involved everything from creating the pattern to sewing and finishing.

The 1920’s cloche, prior to Glenda’s conservation work

I started my placement by researching Zenzie Tinker’s hat collection. This varied collection includes men’s and women’s headwear, mainly from the first half of the twentieth century. During this research I was drawn to a somewhat unusual 1920s cloche. Considering its age, this hat is in good condition, however, it has no maker’s or retailer’s labels. The hat is a rich dark brown and made of felt and flock with a decorative godet in the centre front. It features a metallic hatband that is showing signs of tarnish. The crown is horizontally divided by an uneven join between the two fabrics, and this seam is partially concealed with applique flowers made of circles of felt and what appears to be mercerised thread formed into flower shapes. The hat is highly decorated with embroidery, and the crown is covered with quilting stitches in metallic thread. The brim that tapers towards the back is somewhat uneven, which could be due to wear, poor storage or the original cutting. Internally, the headband has been cut to allow for the godet but has not been finished, allowing it to fray. It also has an unevenly stitched centre-back seem, which suggests that it may have been modified by a previous owner. The idea of modification is supported by other evidence, such as large, uneven stitches visible at the centre back.

The various stages in Glenda’s mount making process

Brenda’s expert finished cloche support

 

I felt that this hat would benefit from a storage mount and asked Zenzie if it was possible to try making one. I found this a very enjoyable task. I started by making a practice from blotting paper that  I hoped could later be used as a template. This was then covered in polyester wadding which could be built up in layers to create the domed top for the crown. I then fashioned a support for the brim. Once happy with the shape and fit,  I made the final piece from acid-free card and Tyvek tape and was able to reuse the padding from the practice. My first instinct was to use cotton jersey for the covering, but this proved unsuccessful as the folds of excess fabric increased the size significantly. I decided to make a fitted cover from down-free cotton instead. This smoother fabric worked much better, and the hat could slide comfortably over it. I covered the rim with silk in a complementary colour before stitching the rim and crown pieces together. Finally, I made a lining from card to hold everything in place and covered the underside of the rim in more silk. I am happy with the support my mount provides for the hat. However, if I were to repeat the exercise, I would make the rim slightly wider to accommodate the uneven brim. I intend to make a box for the hat for ease of storage.

A well supported hat!

I have since been able to gain further mount-making experience by creating mounts for a pair of embroidered slippers. These slippers have a needlepoint embroidery upper featuring a fox design. The intention is to create an embroidery pattern and produce ‘make your own’ kits inspired by them for the online shop. I am thoroughly enjoying my work placement; I have had the opportunity to work alongside skilled professionals who share their knowledge and encourage me at every stage. This experience has ignited and interest in mount-making which I intend to pursue, and I am certain the experience gained here will be beneficial in the future.

MA Curating Alumna Grace Redpath reflects on her role as Learning Manager promoting the history of the ironstone industry on the North East Coast

Posted on by Standard Respond

Grace Redpath is Learning Manager at Land of Iron in East Cleveland, and also a graduate of the Curating Collections and Heritage master’s programme. In this blog post, she reflects on her current professional priorities, and how the discussions and texts she encountered on the MA Curating helped sharpen her aims for the sector.

At present, I am the Learning Manager at Land of Iron. An independent museum located in the seaside Village of Skinningrove, East Cleveland, UK, we act to preserve and promote the history of the ironstone industry that once made this region the heart of steel production on the North East coast.

In the three years since graduating, my work has primarily focused on industrial heritage. Industrial heritage is unapologetically working class with intangible aspects that feed their way into all sorts of areas of everyday life. It is political and holds so much pride. Yet, at the same time, at a surface level, it is incredibly masculine, with a very fixed audience/user base.

As Learning Manager I use the theoretical and ethical debates learnt whilst studying MA Curating Collections and Heritage to think critically about the topic of heritage and challenge traditional narratives of museology. Needless to say, I think about Tony Bennett’s classic text on The Birth of the Museum on a daily basis, putting his work on power and hierarchy in museums into conversation with my interest in including those who are all too often excluded from traditional historical narratives and those who don’t necessarily engage with heritage.

A trip to see the exhibition Forever Amber at the Laing in Newcastle was the catalyst for me undertaking postgraduate study. A retrospective of the work of the city’s Amber Collective, these photographs were a snapshot of a bygone era in the North East. Capturing the period during, and Post industrialisation, the gallery’s walls felt tender with the images of people and places that wouldn’t usually be displayed in such a space. Traditionally adorned with 18th and 19th century oil paintings, the representation felt like a light relief. It got me thinking, maybe these documents could be capital H History too?

In East Cleveland, very little tangible evidence of ironstone mining and steel production remains. A highly divisive topic, the overnight demolition of the Dorman Long Tower and subsequent demolition of Redcar Blast Furnace has led to a collective amnesia about the region’s not too distant past. However, sitting on the site of the former Loftus Ironstone mine (and the first in East Cleveland), Land of Iron’s team of dedicated volunteers and 6 paid members of staff, welcome visitors all year long. Although extraction of Ironstone ended at Loftus mine in 1958, the museum is still classed an Active Mine, with visitors being given a tour of the mines’ ventilation shaft and haulage drift entrance. They can also view our permanent exhibition space about life in the Iron Valley, and temporary exhibition in the Tom Leonard Gallery, which is at present, is displaying previously unseen images by Graham Smith and former Amber Collective member Chris Killip’s Skinningrove series. 

My work primarily involves working with school groups, with our most popular workshop offer being the Ironstone Mining Experience. Teaching young children about the history of their area is rewarding, as local history is a key part of the Primary curriculum, but I am keen to use the collections to maintain relevance with young audiences in an economically deprived area. My most recent ventures have seen me explore STEM opportunities by becoming a STEM Ambassador, and embarking on a fledgling Folk Dance Education programme with the assistance of a donation of Longswords from the English Folk Dance and Song Society, which shall see the intangible dance, once performed by Ironstone miners, revised in the area. I am also keen to have more young people join our board of trustees so the board seeks to serve a broader range of the museums stakeholders.

Reflecting Back, Moving Forward: A brief tale of attaining PhD funding

Posted on by Standard Respond

Lisa Hinkins is a graduate of our BA History of Art and Design and MA Curating Collections and Heritage programmes. She was recently awarded prestigious AHRC Techne funding for a new PhD to be entitled, Where are all the Lesbians? In search of Lesbian Lives in Museums. In this blog post, Lisa reflects on her time at the University of Brighton so far.

It is a privilege to announce my new PhD project. I was asked to write on how it was built on my time at the University of Brighton (UoB) as an undergraduate and graduate student. So, I am in a reflective, sentimental mood. Where do I start?

I just re-read my first HOAD blog, published in March 2016 describing my very first enriching experiences after signing up with UoB’s Active Student Volunteering Service. It catapulted me back to September 2015, a very nervous 43-year-old who after 23 years had left a life of work to return to university. Yes, it wasn’t my first rodeo – I had dropped out of a Graphic Design degree in the early 1990s at Portsmouth after six months. As I walked through the UoB doors though, I knew this was my second chance to steer my own career path. I had to fight my inner fears and draw on all my past experiences to help me make the most of this opportunity.

I actually got through my first year with pretty good grades and I made some friends. I also got my very first paying role in the Museum Sector as a Gallery Explainer with Royal Pavilion & Museums Trust (RPMT). I attended life-drawing sessions and volunteered at Fabrica, a local contemporary art gallery, while also volunteering with Photoworks, a leading platform for photographers. These wonderful opportunities were made available due to the professional and nurturing staff off the University of Brighton. They helped open my eyes to new prospects, widening my networks and developing my potential.

During the last two years my of undergraduate degree, the module programmes allowed me freedom to pursue areas of art and design relating to the LGBTQ+ community and Roma Gypsy history. Weaved with internal work development placements with World Art at RPMT, I gained a wealth of skills and knowledge, giving me more confidence to develop my own research paths.

In 2018 I was part of the inaugural cohort for the MA Curating Collections and Heritage led by Dr Claire Wintle. This innovative Masters combines academic study with vocational professional development. We received insightful seminars from a variety of professionals within the Museum sector, alongside hands on sessions with staff from RPMT.

The decision to study for my MA part-time enabled me have time to continue volunteering with Fabrica and Photoworks, as well as paid work with RPMT. I was able to attend the Gayness in Queer Times Conference held at UoB in the summer of 2019, participating as a speaker on lesbian representation in museums. It also meant I could volunteer as a community co-curator for Queer the Pier exhibition currently on display at Brighton Museum & Art Gallery.

Gayness in Queer Times Conference Summer 2019

This was an incredible experience where I could use my skills to create displays about historic lesbians with connections to Brighton. Using the prism of a pier volunteers from the local LGBTQ+ community created a unique exhibition telling stories of queerness in the city. While carrying out research it came apparent that there was a paucity of original material objects representing lesbian lives. One such woman was Brighton born Harriet Elphinstone-Dick, who achieved one of the greatest swimming feats in 1875. She swam in rough water from Shoreham Harbour to the West Pier in 2 hours and 43 minutes. To illustrate her story of defying Victorian societal expectations as a lesbian woman, I created a design for an automaton machine inspired by the Palace Pier’s dolphin racing game.

Harriet Elphinstone-Dick automaton in Queer the Pier exhibition at Brighton Museum & Art Gallery

I also collaborated with internationally acclaimed Roma artist Delaine Le Bas, academic Dr Lucie Fremlova and LGBQT+ Roma artists in re-claiming the problematic ‘Gipsy’ Fortune Telling Machine held in RMPT’s collection. In an act of Queer decolonisation, we created a display in Queer the Pier that dispensed beautifully designed fortune telling cards by Delaine, alongside a text panel featuring a photograph by the Roma artists working with Lucie. I also edited a takeaway Zine to accompany the display which included personal stories and further photography by the artists.

My work with this team and my innovative automaton led to one of the most exciting prospects in my professional career. I was approached by UoB to develop a PhD proposal…., then the Covid pandemic hit us all.

Strangely or not, I thrived through the ups and downs of that period. I completed my MA dissertation, further developed my own artistic practice, delivered 23 weeks of Zoom Family Pub Quizzes, and partook in two on-line Free University Brighton (FUB) courses. In between this I worked on many drafts of my PhD proposal with support from UoB lecturers.

From 2021 I have guest lectured for the BA(Hons) History of Art and Visual Culture on Brighton LGBTQ+ Cultural History for first year students. The three-hour sessions have incorporated field trips to The Ledward Centre, The Old Police Cells Museum and the Queer the Pier exhibition.

My lecturing work, volunteering and work experience led to another gain another paid role with RPMT as a Museum Educator, which I carry out in conjunction with my roles as a Visitor Services Officer and Gallery Explainer. I also had an invaluable experience as an Archive Assistant working with Rachel Ng, a fellow alumni, on the Chelsea School of Physical Education Archive for the UoB School of Sports and Health Science.

working for the Goal Power! Women’s Football 1894-2022 exhibition held at Brighton Museum & Art Gallery Summer 2022. I am dressed in the dark blue as Victorian footballer Nettie Honeyball in my role as a Museum Educator.

The combination of academic study, paid roles and volunteering built a strong CV for enhancing my application for AHRC Techne funding. It has taken a few years, but with an amazing university team backing me and support from RPMT, I was awarded Collaborative Doctoral AHRC Techne funding in April. From October I shall be moving forward with this exciting project with the University of Brighton and Royal Pavilion & Museum Trust. The project: Where are all the Lesbians? In search of Lesbian Lives in Museums will investigate how RPMT represents lesbian historic lives and identities. It will unpack relations between heteronormative patriarchal histories and museums allowing scholars, professionals, and communities to challenge established social constructs.

I am very excited for this project and cannot wait to start working with my university supervisors.

There are so many people that I am indebted to – RPMT’s Executive Board along with the UoB Doctoral College. My heartfelt thanks go to the UoB School of Humanities and Social Science lecturers who have not only guided me through the PhD application process but supported me from the moment I stepped through these university doors as an undergraduate.

MA Curating Alumna Jenny Mearns shares her new role in museum marketing

Posted on by Standard Respond

Jenny Mearns is Marketing & Membership Officer at The Salisbury Museum and also a graduate of the Curating Collections and Heritage master’s programme. In this blog post, she reflects on her career so far, and how the MA Curating informed her practice and helped her develop her confidence

I enrolled on the MA Curating, Collections and Heritage course in September 2020, after spending time volunteering with the National Trust as an archive assistant, which ignited my interest in working with collections within the museum and heritage sector. My previous roles were varied (visual merchandising, freelance writing, and running my own small fashion label) yet consistently enabled me to utilise my creative and curious nature!

Fashioning our World Exhibition, The Sailsbury Museum

 

As part of the MA course, in April 2022 I commenced on a three-month work placement at The Salisbury Museum, as project assistant on the Fashioning Our World project. This primarily involved investigating the fashion collection at the museum, seeking evidence of historical sustainable fashion practices (mends, repairs, repurposing, alteration). I found this role enormously rewarding, leading me to continue at the museum upon completion of my placement as volunteer project assistant on Fashioning Our World.

A fragment of a wedding dress showing evidence of historical sustainable fashion practices, discovered on Jenny’s work placement

In November 2023, a full-time role became available at The Salisbury Museum, so of course I jumped at the chance of applying, resulting in me being offered the role of Marketing and Membership Officer.

In this role, I am responsible for developing all marketing assets, from press releases, social media campaigns, liaising with local and national media, to designing, creating, and sending out monthly newsletters. I also look after existing museum members, recruit new members, and process monthly membership renewals.

Fortuitously, Fashioning Our World was the first exhibition I was responsible for marketing, which I found hugely rewarding, securing features in national press including the BBC, The Telegraph and The Times.

Further, alongside my role at the museum, I am committed to exploring my research interests, which amongst other avenues include dichotomies between display and storage within fashion collections in museums, and emotional attachment and clothing.

As such, I currently have some of my research undergoing peer review for publication, and, at the end of the month I will be presenting my paper – Diversifying Stories Through the Curation of the Fashioning Our World Project & Exhibition at The Salisbury Museum at the Beyond the Blockbuster: Exhibiting Fashion Now conference at Museum of London Docklands and London College of Fashion.

My time at the University of Brighton enabled me to engage with critical thinking giving me the opportunity to develop my research interests, with amazing support from my tutors. The course was undoubtedly instrumental in enabling me to move forwards, progressing in my chosen career path within the museum sector. My studies also helped to give me confidence in myself and my abilities, enabling me to grow not only professionally, but also to develop as an individual.