I found this editorial actually quite disturbing, and far from anything remotely fashionable in terms of image. However, the deeper concept of how cosmetic surgery can be seen as a fashionable item or trend now pours through these unsettling images. The photography style reminds me of an early Helmut Newton reference, maybe because of the nude women but also how they are quite androgynous and gloss/ gelled like. This image on the left i found quite interesting because of how happy the model is made to be seen as, although the smile looks so false. Could this be a meaning for how surgery can only alter you for a certain amount of time and will not actually change the insecurities or your happiness inside? I loved this review comment i found which stated “Just a reminder that we live in such a vain society where cosmetic or plastic surgery is so widespread it shows up regularly in editorials”. This really made it apparent of how common surgery is now and especially to younger women, it is an open product for conversation and something that is now commonly spoken of and admitted by many. Its interesting to evaluate if it is a positive or negative that cosmetic surgery is so open for discussion between young women!

Overall, cosmetic surgery could be a helpful starting point for breaking down the areas of ‘what makes a woman beautiful’ because surgery is literally re-constructing a person. Physically showing these needles or legitimate surgery procedures is probably a different path for what i am aiming for, however it was beneficial to study.

 “PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG WOMAN”

 

The painting by Botticelli depicts the woman named Simonetta Vespucci, who is said to be the entire beauty of the 15th Century, commonly recognized as the real version of the Venus painted in Birth of Venus. This painting in particular is meant to be one of Botticelli’s most ‘idealized’ portraits of the series surrounding the woman and is majorly over sexualized with the appearance of her large bust and flowing hair. For painters to depict women with their hair long and flowing is a common Renaissance painting aspect of showing sexuality as it was improper at this time to have a woman pose with her hair down. The way the braids spread across her body and finish below her bust is also another element of how Botticelli has tried to eroticize the woman. Additionally, the woman is painted looking away from the viewer, which could be seen as her becoming even more attractive because it is a sign of being possibly unattainable within terms of the male gaze.

The lack of detail in the background of the portrait is evident of how the woman is meant to be of this high beauty and virtue and be the complete focus of the image. This idea is a very unique part of Botticelli’s work as most of his paintings and the ones I have studied throughout this project in particular, he places his figures in even more important architectural settings. But here, the woman is by herself and kept as the main focus.

I love this idea of how she is the real version of the nymph, Venus and how she has been painted with pearls and gold running throughout her hair. Pearls are always a symbolic element of the Renaissance period and an accessory or item that I always find myself being drawn back to in my own styling techniques. I especially am interested in this construction of a perfect woman and how it is used constantly throughout this historic period, maybe more so than many other movements. Although I have already depicted this concept in an earlier shoot, I think re-using the concept of examining beauty within my work would be beneficial to really highlight the importance of this notion throughout the Renaissance. Earlier on, I looked into deconstructing fashion through terms of my styling but maybe for this idea I could base it more on physical beauty standards instead and the techniques or motivations women have for representing themselves as their thought ‘best’ or ‘most beautiful’.

           

 

Paolo Roversi is also another key example of this type of photography that i want to aim to produce for the shoot. Whether this be shot on film and then post edited similar to Roversi’s, i want it to seem very dark and have this old, organic feel. This image on the left is probably the most relevant to my intentions where it has a golden, yellow toning that contrasts with the extreme dark areas of the hair or parts of the chair. I also like how the images are quite blurred and very on the spot which helps highlight the intense dark shadows against the golden tones. This type of action shot would work best for the idea of a picnic or outdoor setting so it becomes more realistic and less editorial; like the past influences i have shown.

 

 

After discussing this gothic theme to my tutors, we decided that it could be beneficial for me to start taking my own photos – just so i can begin to experiment with certain techniques that could match the overall styling theme. As the concept is surrounding a victorian, sort of goth image, Steven Meisel needs to be highlighted and act as a key inspo for this piece. His work within Vogue Italia religiously showcases a dark, stained-like appearance that creates this really vintage glam but almost vulgar or scary feel. He seems to play on shadows and specific shades of tonal lighting throughout his photography so studying how he does this would be most effective for my images – especially as i am taking lighting or shading from the original Renaissance painting. Im not sure at all how i would take photos like this as my confidence with a camera isn’t great, however post-production could be an amazing opportunity for me to filter through Meisel’s techniques into my own work. I also like how the layouts within Vogue show the editorial and then almost a sort of still life example next to it, using the mannequin heads and other relevant props. I definitely feel this could be a creative idea to consider for the shoot too as it could help put across the gothic sense i want to portray much more clearly. It could also be a unique way of showing accessories and smaller styling garments.

 

   

 

Taking place at Westminster Abbey, the outcast for this Gucci show completely portrayed the English tradition and heritage it wanted to. When asked why director, Alessandro answered with “to drive into the sea of gothic inspiration”. This quote definitely evaluates the outlook of English heritage fashion and the sort of look i want to show; although “Picnic at Hanging Rock” was actually set in Australia, the looks are nearly identical. Gucci has portrayed my past spoken about wedding dress image perfectly in their own culture. Managing to bring forward such historic periods and meanings into the future of high fashion and this is exactly the theme i want to run throughout my entire FMP. The complete head to toe looks that cover the entire body whilst still managing to stay quite feminine and fashionable at the least, is a technique i will take away. The light coloured tights in replace of nude legs or even long frilly socks to highlight the focus on traditional patterns and ruffles that we all know to be common in English history is really effective. The longer ruffled dresses is also again highlighting this idea of very exaggerated, very over the top structures of clothing and will be ideal to use to contrast against the everyday picnic setting i want to show.

  

 

The McQueen collection was based on sisterhood, womens milestones and rituals; birth, christenings, weddings and funerals. The garments were designed to show strength but also to showcase a side of vulnerability. It shows, to me, a very traditional outlook on this sort of victorian image, very typical of McQueen’’s image. Burton was inspired by a key item of a vintage wedding dress, sourced from Portabello market and you can see this influence majorly throughout. I should look into this sort of vintage wedding dress shape that appears religiously throughout my research, which will perhaps help exaggerate the image i am trying to get across. It could also be a really playful technique for enhancing quite an odd setting and outfit.

  

 

After reading the coverage from the spring summer runway for Galliano, coincidently; the entire season was based around the film “Picnic at Hanging Rock”. Knowing this now, you can see the huge resemblance between the film stills and the garments on the runway; straw hats, lace dresses and ruffled collars – completely showing the look i am going for. The pinafores were coated with small beads and pearls highlighting a wanted aesthetic that all boarding school girls of the time that the film was based on would have dreamed of. The entire runway shows a major theme of nostalgia and even just having the models walking down a runway, sets the scene of what i want to convey in my own pictures. I want to pay careful attention to detailing for this shoot, focusing on the fabrics of the clothes and the patterns within this. Close up shots of this detailing will be necessary to showcase this in my final layout book. The boots here are made to reflect a working environment and styling based around a farm life, however boots like this are a huge trend currently and would be effective to use to help bring the Renaissance theme into the modern day. I also love the use of layering, particularly in the fourth image where the dress and under garments seem worn and almost a bit destroyed. Using similar aesthetics to this for my looks will help me pull through my key inspiration of the Picnic film.