S/S 18

 

 

Rubchinskiy’s collection was inspired by St Petersburg’s most recent legacies and two diversions; football and electronia. St Petersburg plays a huge role in influencing football through to Russia and therefore, a huge part of Rubchinskiy’s upbringing. Regarding electronia, the designer is admittedly a fan of the first Russian rave before USSR’s collapse, therefore dividing Russian history with Gosha’s motives for the future of fashion.

The collection may not be subtle menswear clothing but has a  significant range and collects a vast appeal due to its collab with Adidas. Its sportswear and ravewear approach to modernising fashion sets foot in current day trends, specifically menswear that i can relate to through my friendship circle anyway so using this as inspo will be really lighthearted and fun to take on.

Football, music, nightlife and fashion are all elements you can say unite people and this is the primary purpose of the collab with adidas. This collection may preach upon concepts of rave culture but shows very obvious signs of this careless, thrown on fashion that my male figure will wear. The drop shoulder jackets which have a slight padding in too reflects the era of the 80’s along with the construction of careful layering. Rubchinskiy has established exactly the theme i want to portray over my entire magazine’s concept and this is to modernise and uniquely conceptualize past movements through contemporary fashion and direction.

F/W 95

Exaggerated silhouettes, smaller waists and padded hips take up most of the runway for Westwood in 95. The actual concept of the designs for this season was to show interest in applying historic precepts to modern fashion which is obviously relatable to my magazine concept for one. Westwood additionally told press that her designs were meant to seem that, for females, the silhouettes looked like a drawing.

I am interested in the bold prints here that are subtle with parts of block colour, for example yellow tights and red gloves to block out the blue tartan and pink floral jacket. I also feel that the types of pattern here can reflect a more mature student’s image contrasting with the male, almost showing a sense of hierarchy through their relationship.

I have discovered that the location will be the most immediate reflection to the Renaissance painting; dark red and warm tones that responds to the intimacy of the original image. The styling now stems from the symbolic meanings of the objects within the painting which class for nostalgia and this will be the secondary reflection to modernise the image.

2018

   

 

I chose this editorial primarily due to the clash of clothing against the retro looking setting, specifically here with the floral curtains. The location is very similar to the one i am going to use for this shoot so it is interesting to see how the model is positioned amongst such a loud setting. I was also attracted to how the images seem quite candid and almost very dream like. This is relevant to my own research too because of the surrounding theme of nostalgia and additionally, this type of comfortability at home idea which i think the location choice and relationship between models will effectively push. The model here is predominantly the main focus of the image even with such an expressive backdrop in some of the photos. So how this is done, whether it be the lighting or styling techniques needs to be considered to help me make sure the figures do not blend in with the setting and the theme is still very obvious.

The styling techniques seem to be use a very bold system of garments that enhance the model from the background and this could be a block dress or block trousers paired with a loud shirt. Overall, the concept of memory or a family vibe is really filtered through and seems to me as a very obvious image.

“Anything Goes“

To solidify my styling approach for the female, i thought it was best to lastly analyze a modern editorial’s approach to typical 80s like fashion. The oversized shirt collar under an oversized jumper is a iconic look from this era and something that i can easily adapt into my own techniques. It will highlight the image of a more mature, professional student but still maintain a playful mood which the shoot needs. ELLE’s editorial here will now help me when researching into runways that continue to approach nostalgia in a similar fashion.

F/W 16

  

 

This editorial depicts the theme of styling that i want to achieve through my male figure. It is playful and shows strong characteristics towards the 80’s period and American teenagehood. I specifically like how strong the colours and the patterns are against one another. Subtle prints which clash with opposing colours and patterns help push a sense of childishness and carelessness – like how a male student could be achieved too. Not only does the editorial showcase a theme of lightheartedness through a strong sense of style, but adapts upon a possible idea of androgyny. The model actually holds no boundaries between being male or female and the choice of using both frilled tops and oversized suits help achieve a genderless feel too. I feel that to really push the influence of Gucci and in addition, my own styling techniques, elements of androgynous fashion needs to be showcased through both male and female models. These examples have come along way from the original Renaissance painting, however, i feel that i have achieved a strong contemporary vision and this way, i can really push my own styling techniques and direction to futurize such a traditional painting.

F/W 16

 

 

Discussing further outfits that could show a playful, sport like a teenage student, these two specific looks from Chin Mens lookbook highlight my purpose of reinterpreting the past and developing it into future trends. The shape of the shirt beneath the traditional sleeveless jumper is what i mean by this. It is a contemporary vision of a traditional, plain outfit and an element that my main influence brand Gucci filters into its work also. Using unusual features such as this cut-piece shirt with garments that immediately respond to my prep theme will help create an even balance of past and present instead of the styling becoming very character like. Patterned sleeveless jumpers, tartan suits, corduroy or velour materials and maybe replacing suit trousers with 80’s like tracksuit bottoms will be the key garments to use.

 

 

Focusing on the typical accessories used within this period i want to play on through my styling, Vogue Tawaiin’s jewellery ad highlights focus on pearls, diamantes and unusual shapes. I think this reflects the era off the 80s and could potentially help define a maybe more higher-class female student of which i would like to depict against a sporty male figure, in even the smallest of details. The accessories are very dramatic and act as another main focus of the image to possibly enhance not only the promotional side but the overall theme. I should consider using excessive and loud amounts of accessories for the model, similar to how Gucci layers their garments excessively.

“Masculin Feminin”

 

Developing this idea of creating a more academic or mature image for the female figure, i found this editorial relevant as it depicts a more professional image through the styling. Button shirts and blazers could be effective in maintaining this that also portray an 80’s theme. The styling here links to my main influence of Gucci and how they use nostalgia in many of their collections, typically the 70s or 80s. I could then manipulate this smart look to feel more like a teenage school uniform by introducing oversized football jackets or tennis skirts so that it is still kept similar to the character i want to depict the male as. The editorial being called ‘masculin feminin’ relates to my concept of creating an androgynous appeal for the styling as the photographer depicts the female model here in both casual trousers and jackets, maybe situated in a more stereotypically masculin position, and contrasts this with a very womanly, office appearance.

   

 

Gucci being a major inspiration for my styling for this shoot, i want to experiment with similar elements of their runway looks, in particular how they use a lot of androgyny and gender fluidity. These looks reminded me of how i could show androgynous fashion through a female figure but it would be effective to see how i can filter this concept through a male model. The consistent pattern used within the designs here also caught my eye as they respond to a nostalgic 80’s school uniform and allow each outfit to correspond in some way. I should consider this when searching for garments for my two models as they should coordinate somehow and remain vibrant against the strong location or background.

The styling here could influence my male model’s garments as i would prefer for him to remain “preppy” and sport like. However, i would prefer the female figure to act maybe more academic and a more professional student to create this story setting or character dynamic.

“The Trainee“