Dazed & Confused Portfolio
Collier Schorr works as a fashion photographer who is mostly now known for her mixed media post-production of a between the establishment of fashion editorial and fine art. I find this type of layout so extrodinary for a fashion photographer as after editing original images, it is rare to see an outcome so unique as these. I was attracted to this sort of layout out initially because of the random but very carefully placed layerings of coloured photographs and monochrome. Although they are each individual images from various different shoots, how she has layered them over one another seem to create one larger photograph. I also like how although, again, there are random images all over one page, the stating of models and styling looks is still evident – regardless of the sketchbook like format. This idea would be useful for me to replicate just to make sure the theme of an archive is really got across, even if the clothes aren’t designer. It would make my theme seem a lot more corporate and professional having this subtle hint of brand identity throughout each page.
Developing ideas for a new layout system instead of magazine..
Whilst i am studying Helmut Lang’s design image, it has also become very evident of the brand’s promotional and imaging techniques, which i am very fond of. I really feel that the way the designs or adverts for the brand are a lot more personal to my own style and i think using this influence could be a much more unique way of presenting my work for FMP over a magazine. After discussing this in my tutorial, i have decided its best to research into various layouts that could be effective in portraying my work through the idea of an old archive. I came across this YSL lookbook layout which coincidently had pages laid out in this sketchbook format that i also want to incorporate within my own work. The lookbook uses various mediums of materials such as scanned images, originals, polaroids and films – all tied together to form this archive look of YSL’s season. Definitely shooting on film for the rest of this project or making digital pictures seem old or grainy through post production will be most beneficial to me in recreating an old archive folder. I also need to remember to use this mix range of materials including maybe typewriter text that would create a solid, statement heading for each shoot (or theoretically, each season or advert). Getting hold of a vintage polaroid or something similar could also be really fun and help me adapt to more of a playful sketchbook format.
Similar to my deconstructed shoot, Helmut Lang uses various cut outs and unusual add ons within the garments to give this unfinished feel. I think to really promote such an eccentric and contemporary brand i need to remember these techniques and focus my styling on similar aspects such as this utility vest idea created from multiple strapped vests or military style jackets – although, within the concept of denimwear.
This collection was based upon the aesthetics of dragonflies, the evidence of this coming through with Lang’s signature style of intricate tailoring, cut away structures and layers of unusual t-shirt cut bandages. I think this runway is actually one of the most obvious season’s of Helmut Lang’s careful techniques so looking into how the styling is used throughout each look can help guide me into appropriately presenting them. I think after studying such a contemporary vision for fashion through the designs of Helmut Lang, i need to look into other designers that have established a strong development on the idea of traditional denim pieces.
These are just screenshots taken from Helmut Lang’s website where they display the denim garments. I love how they present both a male and female figure next to one another to promote this idea of androgyny from their denim designs and shows how each garment looks on either figure. From these, i can take styling ideas of just the simple white crewneck tshirt and stonewash denim jeans that i will use on both genders. These garments and also the colours they are made from will also be best presented on a film camera, referring back to this 90’s archive concept.
Further examples of advertisements..
Not only has looking into Helmut Lang’s adverts inspired me for this shoot, but has also left me thinking about possible different ways that i can now showcase my entire fmp, from exhibition stand to final book. Although i have been set on creating a magazine, the vision is slightly lacking for final outcome and overall running theme as my outcome shoots are starting to differ from the initial concept of the Renaissance. I am still very interested and happy to continue using the inspirations of Renaissance paintings, however i am starting to feel that a magazine might not be best to showcase my work after all. Helmut Lang uses very contemporary but quite corporate looking ways to present the lookbooks or adverts overall and i have been very drawn to this concept – especially as i have always differed between stylist and image maker through my university experience too. This kind of concept has interested me so much and i feel that it is a much more personal outcome for my own style of work and personality, making me feel more motivated about the project again.
I am really drawn to this idea of creating a large archive of my work that could be seen as something pulled from a designer’s corporate chest or library. I would be able to use almost all my current shoots within this too which would be formated similar to a professional sketchbook inside a large document or folder. Because all my shoots have been shot on film so far, i think this aesthetic i keep reaching for of early 2000’s or late 90’s could be an obvious theme running throughout the archive and help achieve this feeling of re-discovering old designs, runways and photos.
This isn’t an exact confirmation on my change of final outcome but i want to definitely start practicing different layouts that could feature my shoots in!
Looking into various Helmut Lang adverts to get a deeper understanding on the aesthetics the brand sticks to that help create such a strong corporate identity.
Straight away, i knew that Helmut Lang would be the brand that i want to develop on as a denim brand. Helmut Lang is very contemporary as fashion goes and promotes eccentricity and individualism – an idea that will flow throughout my styling and entire magazine concept. I really love how the styling here is so basic but gets across a typical 90’s feel with how laid back the aesthetic is. From this, i will stick to a very simple colour scheme for everything involved, including location, backdrop and accessories. These two images show high awareness of androgynous clothing even though the models are very identifiable of gender and this is the key element that i need to achieve. The simple but effective styling is something i really want to work on as i feel my typical techniques are to be very obvious and eccentric and learning to really strip back on these approaches would be useful for the future. I think to really understand the brand and how i can present it appropriately, i will need to research into various ads and runways that i can also take influence from.
JPG’s vision here was to achieve a strong cross-cultural image using various shapes and patterns, from Indian and African tribal prints on tops to 18th-century denim corsetry. I have specifically picked out the denim looks from this runway which each express a very strong individuality and although made in 94, i feel give a clear vision for its future – now- of fashion, and in particular, androgynous fashion. It showcases men in large denim cut skirts, with layerings of multiple denim jackets to really emphasize not only the clothing, but the element of genderless fashion. I will specifically take inspiration from the layering technique used throughout the runway and particularly, the use of waistcoats. This is something that could maybe be seen as not very “on trend” and a garment that i could really develop on to futurize.
Further examples of how i can re-create standard denim garments and bring them into modern day fashion through my styling.
Ganni’s look book here i found very different from stereotypical denim brands and how your average denim pieces such as a jacket would be made and then presented. I really like how they have used contemporary ways of designing the garments such as breaking up denim overalls into a completely new two piece and layering with various other coloured denim garments. It gives a very futuristic vision for such standard pieces and is something i should consider going forward. Do i want to present a statement brand that reflects traditional pieces such as Levis or something very unique and modern like this.