I chose to create a wooden book with a living hinge spine, however it took a few attempts as it included engraving and vector cutting:
Getting Started:
Object, expand appearance
Change brush stroke to basic and 0001 thickness
Use pen tool
View outline
(Any lines are cut any fills are engraved)
Ensure that the measurements are set to that of the machine: 173 mm height/ 430mm width
Keep template measurements the same
If their line is 0.76 don’t change to 0.001
Preferences to set combined
Taster for engrave
Vector to cut out
Living Hinge:
I downloaded a living hinge template from the official website. I made sure to keep the settings exactly the same as recommended. However, I had to crop the template slightly to fit the bit of spare wood I had.
To ensure the measurements were accurate I first measured my panel of wood:
Problems I encountered:
- Laser started cutting lower down so I changed ‘Configure’ setting on laser cutter so it started at ‘0’
- At first I chose combined setting but the image didn’t cut out properly so I done colour mapping and experimented with different power and speed on small prices of wood.
- / send over 2 separate files
- Engrave first, then vector cut
- Change dpi and frequency to 300 this meant cleaner lines on spine that weren’t so burnt
- I created a living hinge as spine for my book. Vector File wasn’t coming through to laser cutter so we changed line thickness back to 0.001
Question: Why did it start cutting after I set home then pressed go and the lid was up?
Solution: Always delete previous file on the machine
In the future I would: put masking tape along the back and front of the living hinge spine, as well as along the edges; to ensure there was no burnt discolouration.
Recommendations to follow:
Preparing artwork (for vector cutting)
- 2D vector file, in a dumb format (EPS or DXF)
- Make the format as simple as possible
- All shapes no fill, and 0.001mm stroke
- Laser origin is top left
Place material
- Consider airflow
- Alignment against the rulers
- Support to distance the material from the bed
- Flat surface – consistent z-height
- Masking tape for light materials or to protect surface
Set origins and focus
- Use laser pointer
- Set x and y origins
- Use focus tool to set z-origin
Settings
- Power – too much melts, too little doesn’t cut. Use multiple passes.
- Speed – too slow can cause combustion, too fast doesn’t cut
- Pulse rate/Frequency – too close can melt, too far apart can leave gaps
- Coordinate system, origin is top left
- Vector mode for cutting, raster mode for engraving (but interesting grey areas for experimentation)
Extraction
- Turn on the BOFA extractor (speed approx 330m3h)
- Turn on the air compressor
Whilst it’s cutting
- Always observe the cutting closely
After the cut
- Leave the lid closed with the extractor on for 30 seconds
- Clean the bed – If using the metal sheet, take it to the sink and carefully clean it without bending the sheet
Materials
- Cardboard – the good stuff bows, not kinks. Use old boxes. Very forgiving for joints
- Plywood – Real thickness != real thickness – use the callipers.
- PMMA/acrylic/plexiglass/perspex/lucite glue bend
- POM/delrin/acetal – more elastic than acrylic
No-gos
- No PVC – releases chlorine
- Never put a material into the cutter unless you know where it came from – no random plastic.
- Never put anything shiny (e.g. metal) into a CO2 laser)
- Make some samples of one or more cutting techniques using cardboard
- Photograph them
- Document how the settings have effected the end result
