Leading on from Dapper Dan and the common fashion in 80/90s hip hop, I thought there would be nothing more appropriate than to make use of my own ‘COOGI’ jumper. Coogi was a brand established in Australia, which initially was made for golfers and high class men as such. But, throughout the rise of the hip hop industry – artists as big as Notorious B.I.G made the brand much more common and noticeable – (but still expensive at that matter).
Looking into the link between music and fashion, i thought it would be best to mention and research further into Dapper Dans work. I had heard a lot about his designs from my personal love of hip hop music, and knew about his originality and influence throughout the late 80s/90s. So what did he do? Dapper Dan (nickname), realised that high end brands were abruptly growing throughout the artists of the music world at this time, but with the racism issues and poverty at this time, most were turned away from shops, made to feel lowered and uncomfortable. Somehow, Dapper Dan re-created these brands in his own, unique sense – offering a shop of welcomeness and all round support for his customers. From my research, it shows how prioritised money was and the possible start of commercialising these expensive brands through rising music trends. It was also enjoyable to read about menswear fashion as i find it hard to find usually. Ironically, he didn’t seem to make ladies wear and as i researched further – I noticed the pattern of sexism and feminism within this industry. So next, i will look into the common factors of sexism throughout hip hop.
Ewen Spencer is a photographer based in Brighton, coincidentally. I have studied his work a lot and is a main focus i always try to include in any project i am given as his photography, i feel, is really unique and personal to him, which i think is most important for fashion photography itself. His most famous project, UKG – studies the subculture of youth, specifically the garage music scene. His photography is most significant to me as it reflects realism, and really manages to outline feelings and expressions through use of such little objective. The lustful atmosphere that he exposes in each photograph shows real passion to the music, fashion and obviously one another – an all over positivitiy to a culture that is down-trodden on.
One of my absolute favourite brands have managed to pull together a collection of crazy pattern and surreal nostalgia to their designs for their 2017, couture. I feel so lucky to have come across this collection, the relevance to it not only within my next steps for this project but to my own lifestyle is immense! They have really thought carefully about the designs, and have managed to make the reflection upon ’90’s rave culture’ subtle and more like a memorable attraction to your past (and maybe regrettable) choices! You can see the influence from the music scene through expression of accessories and careful styling opportunities such as the 90s, child’s wallpaper inspired look upon the statement, block coloured hats and shoes. This look has made me acknowledge the massive connection between music and fashion and how each matter keeps one another evolving, so I now know where my final outcome will lead too – music industry development through the world of fashion.
These are a few examples from my clashing shoot outcomes – using both genders to express how it can work for anyone. The leopard print patterns seemed to work best together especially with block colours working around it. I think to improve this look, we could of used plain items to break the clashes up – making it look much more like an everyday piece to the audience.
So, clashing designs and cultured patterns have always been a major theme in my wardrobe, especially in the warmer and sunnier seasons, so this workshop has really stood out for me as a key starting point for my next, partnered project. I thought I should look into possible designers who are unique and have a specific way of clashing the clothing so somehow, the outfit still looks effective and definitely purchasable.
Designers I came across were:
- Todd Oldham
- Miu Miu
- Moschino; specifically early 90s – early 2000’s (obviously)
- Vintage Versace
- Vivienne Westwood
- Alexander McQueen
I class a good “clash” to be anything from the colours, patterns and even possible embroidery / gems within the clothing, even as broad as the shaped holes made in some clothing designers. Its something that only certain people have the eye for, and I feel is maybe the hardest element of becoming a stylist – as the appearance is meant to be noticeable, yet seriously not over the top.
I came across Clark’s work again when flicking through I-D Magazine looking for various artists who have expressed youth culture. Larry Clark also set the film “KIDS” in the 90s, based on the upbringing and survival of being a teenager. Although his work isn’t intentionally based on fashion – the idea is brilliant for resembling personalities through the teenage fashion. His snaps for the work revolving youth culture also set the scene for how cliques and fashion groups work in school – especially amongst the US – where similar films, such as ‘Mean Girls’ take part too. Showing personal problems aimed towards his audience, I can really relate to every aspect of his images, from the styling to the expressions. Additionally, I like how specifically, these polaroid look like 90’s album covers / mixtape covers with clever, but careless compositions and environments.
I decided that from looking into youth culture, this brand would be most effective on decisions for placements and areas for a shoot, especially looking from the 90s – until present day, the brand has been know in many factors. This book really spoke out to me in ways of teenage expressions and the realism of our generation – that photographers, the media etc.. do not understand. I think that the media of today, in many jobs or aspects, show adolescents to be clones of one another, with the same personalities and aspirations. I also feel like they show us in the most careless and unknown light – so Palace act upon this and focus on highlighting that our generation is unique and definitely not all about feminism, protests and ‘saving the planet through psychedelics’ – in which we are stereotyped to be.
These are a few of my examples of inspired Marc Jacob’s collection from the early 90s. Im not that happy with how they’ve turned out, the studio wasn’t as clean or perfected as we would of hoped so I think we could of found somewhere more reflective of the inspo. Additionally, the styling seemed recognisable of the initial runway clothing – as we focused on the similar colours, patterns and layering – the main elements in which Jacobs used on his own. Also, within this – we tried to include movement of the clothes so we could practice capturing various shutter speeds on a digital, but unfortunately, i think this was a failure and needs a lot more practice. Perhaps I could do a shoot based on elements of a camera instead of focusing on the styling – simply for the skills and knowledge first hand.